Lebanon, a country rich in history and culture, boasts a wide variety of traditional clothing. Traditional Lebanese dress reflects the mix of cultures that have influenced the country over time, as well as the deep roots of its own identity. In this article, we'll explore the different aspects of Lebanese costume, its history and key elements such as the underpants, the shirt and the dress. We'll also look at how these garments have evolved over time and their significance in Lebanese society.
History and influence of traditional Lebanese dress
The history of traditional Lebanese dress is closely linked to that of the country. Located on the Silk Road, Lebanon has been a crossroads for many civilizations over the centuries. Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Ottomans and the French have all left their mark on Lebanese costume, creating a unique blend of styles and materials. Oriental, European and African influences can be found in the various traditional outfits.
The first traces of traditional costumes
Cave paintings dating from around 7000 BC show men wearing short, pleated skirts, conical hats and jewelry. These early outfits could be considered the ancestors of traditional Lebanese costumes. Clothes were mainly made of linen or wool, depending on the period and region.
Key elements of traditional Lebanese male costume
Underpants (serwal)
The most characteristic element of traditional Lebanese men's clothing is undoubtedly the underpants known as serwal. Made of lightweight fabric, they are generally white and widen at the thighs before tightening at the knees. The serwal is worn under a long shirt called an abaya or caftan, which covers the legs to mid-calf.
The shirt (abaya or caftan)
The shirt goes by several names depending on its cut and style: abaya, caftan or qumbaz. They are wide, long-sleeved and often embellished with fine embroidery in gold or silver thread. Other embellishments include ribbons, braids, buttons and pearls.
The belt (shirwel)
A wide, thick belt called a shirwel is then tied around the waist, usually made from a long piece of muslin, silk or cashmere. This belt holds the shirt and shorts in place.
Key elements of traditional Lebanese women's costume
The dress (thob)
The main element of traditional Lebanese women's dress is the thob. Long and ample, it is characterized by its often very elaborate embroidery, using silk or cotton threads on floral or geometric motifs. Rich in color and ornamentation, the dresses reflect the skills of Lebanese craftsmen, as well as the social status of the women according to their region of origin.
The veil (arida)
In addition to the dress, traditional Lebanese women's costume generally includes a veil called an arida. Tied around the head, it drapes beautifully over the neck and shoulders. Sometimes adorned with pearls, sequins or embroidery, it contributes greatly to the charm of the outfit. Veils can also have religious significance.
Accessories
To complete their outfits, women often wore various accessories such as jewelry, including gold and silver necklaces, bracelets and rings, elaborate fabric belts and embroidered shoes. Men also wore traditional hats such as the taqiyah or keffiyeh, as well as leather shoes and spurs for riding.
Evolution and significance of traditional Lebanese dress
Over time, traditional Lebanese dress has undergone several changes. The arrival of the Arabs in the 7th century, for example, brought new styles of dress such as the turban and caftan, which influenced local costumes. Similarly, the establishment of a French protectorate over Lebanon in the early 20th century introduced more European cuts.
But beyond external influences, traditional Lebanese dress was also transformed to meet the needs of the local population. As the seasons changed, different materials were used to make the garments: light, cool linen in summer, warm, thick wool in winter. Colors and embroidery patterns also varied according to the local fashions and traditions of each region of Lebanon.
A cultural richness still present today
Although traditional Lebanese dress is less common in the daily lives of today's Lebanese, it remains a strong symbol of their cultural heritage. Numerous events, weddings and religious celebrations still provide the opportunity to wear these elegant costumes steeped in history.
- The serwal, typical Lebanese men's underwear
- The abaya or caftan, an embroidered shirt worn by men
- The thob, an embroidered dress for women
- The arida, an elegant veil that completes a woman's outfit
In short, traditional Lebanese dress reflects a rich and varied heritage, marked by the influence of many cultures and the evolution of local fashions and needs. A symbol of Lebanese identity, it continues to be worn for important ceremonies, helping to preserve this unique heritage.